VINDOLANDA

Stanegate Fort and Settlement

Chesterholm, Northumberland

NGRef: NY770664 OSMap: Hadrian's Wall, OL43, LR87. Type: Stanegate Fort, Minor Settlement, Bath House.	A Reconstruction of a Nymphaeum lies beside the Bradley Burn east of the fort in the grounds of Chesterholm House
Roads
Probable road: NE (4¼) to VERCOVICIVM (Housesteads, Northumberland) Stanegate: W (7) to MAGNIS (Carvoran, Northumberland) via Haltwhistle Burn Stanegate: ENE (10) to CILVRNVM (Chesters, Northumberland) via Crindledykes

Vindolanda - 'The White Enclosure'

Painting of a Nymph From the Nymphaeum Vindolandesses

Roman Chesterholm began c.AD90 when the first timber fort was built here as part of the Stanegate garrison. The original fort was considerably extended within five years of being built. Chesterholm was abandoned following the completion of nearby Hadrian's Wall c.AD125, but was reoccupied and rebuilt in stone during the late-second century.

The first reference to the fort at Chesterholm is contained within the Notitia Dignitatum of the late-4th/early-5th centuries, where the station Uindolana is listed between the entries for Borcouicio (Housesteads, Northumberland) and Aesica (Great Chesters, Northumberland). The only other classical mention of the fort occurs in the Ravenna Cosmology of the seventh century, wherein the entry Vindolande (R&C#132) is listed this time between the entries Camboglanna (Birdoswald, Cumbria) and Longovicium (Lanchester, Durham).

The Roman fort at Chesterholm is thus named Vindolana or Vindolande in the geographies, while an inscription from an altar recovered in the neighbourhood refers to the civilian inhabitants as the Vindolandesses (RIB 1700). The name now accepted is Vindolanda which has been variously interpreted as 'The White Cross' or 'The White Enclosure'.

Compare modern Welsh: gwyn-dafadfa 'white sheep-fold'.

The Epigraphy of Vindolanda

There are 47 Latin inscriptions for Vindolanda recorded in Volume I of the R.I.B.; comprising 24 altars and votive stones, 6 building inscriptions (1 undateable), 4 legionary and centurial stones, 6 tombstones, and 7 other undefined stones and inscribed artifacts including four 'voussoir stones' each inscribed with a different engineer's number: X, XI, XIII and XIIII (RIB 1720a-d).

The Dateable Inscriptions

1. The governor Sextus Calpurnius Agricola administered Britain from AD163/4 to c.166.

The Vindolanda Writing Tablets

Fragment of Virgil's Aeneid (9:473) from the Vindolanda hoard.

Excavations carried out at Chesterholm in the late 1980's in a ditch used for dumping waste material from the fort, uncovered hundreds of fragments from writing tablets, mere slivers of wood in most cases. Waterlogged conditions at the site had kept the tablets in such a remarkable state of preservation that many of the fragments, though nearly two-thousand years old, were still legible. Most of the writings discovered at Vindolanda have proved difficult to read and interpret, but have so far yielded a very treasure-trove of epigraphic information; most importantly there are copies of military rosters (vide infra) and other official documents regarding the fort's garrison units, there are examples of correspondences between the wives of the fort's commanders, letters written to the soldiers at the fort and drafts of their replies home, even a schoolboy's notes quoting from Virgil's Aeneid. Who knows what else awaits discovery?

Writing tablet found at Vindolanda in 1988 and dated to AD146

Hadrian's Residence at Vindolanda

During the 1992 digging season at Chesterholm, remains were uncovered of a fifty yard square timber building of some fifty rooms which has been dated to the 120's AD. It is evident from both the floor plan and the recovered fragments of wall paintings that the building was a somewhat palatial residence, of an opulence not often seen in the north of the province. It has been suggested that this veritable palace in the wild lands of North Britain, located at the mid-way point of the Wall and only one mile south of its intended line, was built to accomodate the emperor and his imperial party during the visit to Britain in AD122. It was perhaps here that the fertile and active mind of the highly-intellectual emperor began first to visualise what was to become his lasting monument.

The Auxiliary Forts

Ditches of Possible Agricolan Fort beneath industrial area west of fort excavated during visit in 2004

There have been at least six forts at the Chesterholm site, four of turf and timber construction and two of stone; the visible remains are those of the latest fort on the site, built of stone at the turn of the fourth century and covering 3½ acres.

Occupation during early-Trajanic period attested by archaeology here and at Corbridge and Carlisle where the roads north were situated. There are three pre-Hadrianic building sequences at Chesterholm, one of which possibly dates to c.103 when Corbridge was rebuilt. Another period of rebuilding may be dated to the pre-Wall strengthening of the Stanegate frontier during early Hadrianic times. The remaining occupation probably Agricolan.

Sextus Calpurnius Agricola inscription - also at Carvoran, Corbridge, Chesterholm on the Stanegate and at Ilkley and Ribchester in its hinterland. Chesterholm lead shot. See Burnswark. Theodosian rebuilding? Coins of 383-410 have been found at Chesterholm also Birdoswald, Maryport, Corbridge, Carlisle, South Shields and Chesters.

1. The primus pilus (literally 'first spear') was the most experienced centurion in a legion, usually placed in command of the most experienced troops in the First Cohort.

Building inscriptions and legionary stones from all three main British legions have been unearthed at Chesterholm; there is an undated building plaque of Legio XX Valeria Victrix (RIB 1708), probably the builders of the original fort on the site during the Agricolan campaigns, and an altarstone dedicated to the goddess Fortuna by Legio VI Victrix (RIB 1684), but the legion best represented is Legio II Augusta from Isca Silurum (Caerleon in Gwent, South Wales), which has an altar to Silvanus by a Beneficiarius Consularis (RIB 1696), a B.I. of governor Aulus Platorius Nepos (RIB 1702; dated: AD122-126), which must record refurbishment prior to the arrival of the emperor Hadrian in AD122, and an undated building plaque of a vexillatio or legionary detachment (RIB 1707).

1. A beneficiarius was a soldier excused normal duties in order to perform a specific task for a superior officer, from whom he obtained his authority, in this particular case the consular governor of the province. In many cases beneficiarii were recruited from among the family, friends and clients of the officer in question, thus, for example, a legionary legate might employ his brother-in-law among his personal staff with the honorary rank of beneficiarius legati.

1. The emperor Hadrian ruled from the death of his adoptive father Trajan in August AD117 until his own death of natural causes at Baiae in July 138.
2. Aulus Platorius Nepos was a personal friend of Hadrian who accompanied the emperor during his visit to Britain in AD122 and was the governor who oversaw the actual building of the Wall. He returned to Rome in 126.

The Chesterholm Garrison

Bronze Military Standard recovered from Vindolanda

The original garrison of Vindolanda is not known, and the earliest identified unit at the site has only recently been revealed on one of the Vindolanda writing tablets. The garrison of the mid-second century was Cohors I Tungrorum, an infantry unit from the Tungri tribe who inhabited the north-western fringes of the Arduenna Silva in Gallia Belgica (the Ardennes Forest on the border between Belgium and Germany). This unit had been active in the Agricolan campaigns in Central Scotland, and saw action in the final battle at Mons Graupius which resulted in the near-total destruction of the Caledonian tribes. During this time the First Cohort of Tungrians was known to be a cohors quingenaria peditata, a five-hundred strong infantry unit, but by the mid-second century the complement had been increased by half again to a total strength of over 750 men (vide supra).

The late-second century garrison was possibly Cohors II Nerviorum, another quingenary cohort, whose soldiers were raised from among the Nervii tribe of Belgic Gaul. These warlike neighbours of the Tungri had in the past rebelled against Julius Caesar and were severely put-down in response, though they were later to provide the Roman Auxilia with foot soldiers of excellent repute. There are two stones attesting the presence of Cohors II Nerviorum, an altar to the god Cocidius (RIB 1683) and an altar to Mars and Victory (RIB 1691). The latter stone is dedicated by Coh III Nerviorum, however, but the numeral III is assumed to be an error.

The third century garrison was Cohors IV Gallorum, a mixed unit of infantry and cavalry with a nominal strength of five hundred men, the fourth to be recruited from among the tribesmen of central Gaul, now modern France. The unit is mentioned on seven inscribed stones from Vindolanda three of them dateable to the third century; an altar to the Genius of the Praetorium (1685), three altars to Iupitter Optimus Maximus (1686 - 1688), a B.I. of the emperor Caracalla (1705; dated: AD213), a B.I. of governor Claudius Xenephon (1706; dated: AD223) and another B.I. of emperor Probus (1710; dated: AD276-282). The regiment is also attested at Vindolana at the end of the fourth century in the Notitia Dignitatum.

1. The emperor Caracalla was the elder son of the emperor Septimius Severus, who ruled the empire after his father's death at Eburacum in February AD211, at first jointly with his younger brother Geta, then alone after he had him killed in December 211. He was himself murdered at Rome in April 217.
2. Caracalla held the powers of a tribune for the sixteenth time and was consul for the fourth time in AD213. The further victory title Germanicus Maximus was added in September that same year.

1. The emperor Severus Alexander became emperor in March 222 after the death of his adoptive father Elagabalus and ruled until his murder in March 235 at Vicus Britannicus (Bretzenheim, Germany).
2. Claudius Xenephon was governor of Britain AD222/223.

1. The emperor Probus ruled the empire from July AD276 until he was murdered by his own troops near Sirmium in September 282.

1. This prefect's first two names have been arbitrarily restored.

The Gods of Roman Chesterholm

Romano-Celtic Temple outside the visitor centre at the entrance to the site

During excavations carried out at the Chesterholm/Vindolanda fort there have been twenty-four altars or votive objects uncovered, dedicated to a large variety of gods, both classical (Graeco-Roman) and pagan (Germano-Celtic). There are five stones dedicated to Iupitter Optimus Maximus including three of Cohors IV Gallorum (RIB 1686-1688 supra) and two others bearing little detail (RIB 1689 & 1690; not shown), another five to the Germanic warrior-god Vheterus (RIB 1697-1699 & 1722e/f), two stones to the 'Mother Goddesses' (RIB 1692, 1722a), one of which may be tentatively dated to the late-third/early-fourth centuries, and single altarstones to Cocidius (RIB 1683), to Fortuna (RIB 1684), to Viturus (RIB 1722g), to Neptune (RIB 1694), to the Genius of the Praetorium (RIB 1685), to the goddess Sattade by the council of the Textoverdi, the local British tribe (RIB 1695), to Silvanus by a Beneficiarius Consularis of Leg II Augusta (RIB 1696), to the 'Divine House' and the god Vulcan (RIB 1700) and another to Mogons and the 'Local Guardian Spirit' (RIB 1722d).

1. This stone may be dedicated to Maximinus Thrax (Imp. AD235-238; with his like-named son), Maximian (Imp. AD286-308; with Diocletian 284-305), or possibly (but not likely) Maximinus Daia (Imp. AD310-313).

In addition to altarstones there are a number of other votive objects; a dedicatory slab bearing an inscription to Mars and Victory (RIB 1691 supra), a relief of Mercury bearing the text DEO MERCVRIO (RIB 1693; relief), a silver lunula of the god Maponus inscribed DEO MAPONO (RIB 1722b/2431.2; silver lunula; Britannia ii (1971), p.291, no.12), and another altar inscribed simply DEAE "For the Goddesses." (RIB 1701; altarstone).

Vindolanda Textoverdorum?

The Buildings of the Vicus looking westwards across the central buildings of the fort

The civilian settlement at Chesterholm has been positively identified as a vicus - the lowest form of self-governing settlement recognised by Roman law - on an altar to the god Vulcan found 120 yards to the west of the fort (RIB 1700, infra). The settlement grew mainly along the north bank of the Doe Sike to either side of the roads issuing from the porta principia sinistra (west gate) of the fort. The shops and dwellings have narrow frontages ranged along the street and stretch back at right-angles from it for quite some distance; it is thought that the buildings within a Roman vicus were taxed according to the length of street they occupied, which is why they were built to such a long and narrow ground-plan.

1. The Latin word vicani could be literally translated as 'those of the street-settlement', a modern English equivalent would be 'villagers'.
2. This altarstone is one of only two pieces of epigraphic evidence recording the actual names of places on the Wall, the other being the Rudge Cup, found in Wiltshire in 1725.

Another altar to a local goddess found at nearby Beltingham Chapel is presumed to have come from the Chesterholm site, and suggests that the Vindolanda settlement may have served as the civitas capital of the Textoverdi, seemingly a minor British tribe who were probably subject in past times to the powerful Brigantes of Northern Britain.

1. The goddess Satiada (or Saitada, or Sattada, or even Saiiada) was probably a local deity, for whom there is no evidence other than this one small, unadorned altar stone; either in Britain or elsewhere.
2. The Textoverdi tribe are likewise unsubstantiated by further evidence.

Six Roman tombstones have been unearthed from the environs of the Chesterholm fort, many of them damaged. There is also a heavily damaged stone which is thought to bear a funerary inscription (RIB 1718; not shown).

Roman Milestones from Chesterholm/Vindolanda

1. There is also an underlying 'primary' inscription, the only surviving text of which reads: ...DRI.

The Praetentura and NW Angle viewed from the western bath-house

The Military Bath-House

NY769663 - The military bath-house outside the NW angle of the 3rd/4th century fort was completely excavated in 1970. Four building phases were identified but none were positively dated. A changing-room and latrine were added in the 2nd phase, and a verandah and service rooms were included in the 3rd. Pottery indicates that the bath-house was no longer functioning by c.AD367. By the Theodosian period part of the site had been re-used for some sort of industrial purpose. A childs sandal recovered from the site indicated that the baths were in public use during the early-4th century.

Chesterholm / Vindolanda Today

Reconstructions of Hadrian's Wall Defences on the slopes south-west of the fort

The Southern Bath-House consolidated excavations in 2004

Chesterholm Roman Fort and Vicus
Almost everything one could expect from a Roman site is preserved at Chesterholm. Approached along the line of the Stanegate from the east, beyond the Museum and Gift Shoppe there lies the square foundations of a Romano-Celtic temple with the drainage-channels and water tanks of an industrial area to the south, currently under excavation by the Vindolanda Trust, while, beyond the buildings of the civil settlement and two independent bath-houses lies the superbly-preserved remains of the fort itself. The consolidated remains, together with reconstructions of a section of a turret on Hadrian’s Wall, a “Turf Wall” timber mile castle, a picturesquely sited nymphaeum and several Roman tombstones, justifiably make this site amongst the most visited in Britain. Man, you gotta go here!

See: Hadrian's Wall Map and Guide by the Ordnance Survey (Southampton, 1989);
Hadrian's Wall in the Days of the Romans by Ronald Embleton and Frank Graham (Newcastle, 1984) pp.210-222;
Hadrian's Wall History Trails Guidebook IV by Les Turnbull (Newcastle, 1974), pp.29-56;
Britannia ii (1971) pp.249, 291 & 301;
Air Reconnaissance of North Britain by J.K. St. Joseph in J.R.S. xli (1951) p.55;
The Roman Inscriptions of Britain by R.G. Collingwood and R.P. Wright (Oxford 1965).
All English translations, including any inherent mistakes, are my own.

Vindolanda Related Lynx

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